However, the earliest head-dress pieces of similar type (rigid cylindrical hat which completely covered the hair) were found in the 10th- to 12th-century burials in Veliky Novgorod. The word kokoshnik first appears in 16th-century documents, and comes from the Old Slavic kokosh, which means "hen" or " cockerel". Mid 19th-century kokoshnik from Middle Russia The kokoshnik were often also combined with the Russian braid. While wearing a kokoshnik the woman usually wears her hair in a plait. The forehead area is frequently decorated with pearl netting. The crest can be embroidered with pearls and goldwork or simple applique, usually using plant and flower motifs. While in the past kokoshnik styles varied greatly, currently a kokoshnik is generally associated with a tall, nimbus or crest shaped headdress which is tied at the back of the head with long thick ribbons in a large bow. The word kokoshnik describes a great variety of headdresses worn throughout Russia, including the cylindrical hats of Veliky Novgorod, two-pointed nimbus kika of Vladimir, triangular kika of Kostroma, small pearl hats of Kargopol, and scarlet kokoshniks of Moscow.
Historically a kokoshnik is a headdress worn by married women, though maidens also wore a headdress very similar to a kokoshnik, but open in the back, named a povyazka.
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